Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Central Europe Trip, Day Six

Day 6 proved to be a physically and emotionally exhausting day. It started with a local guide, Gregory, who showed us to Wawel (pronounced Vavel, of course) Hill. It was so cool that we could walk there from our hotel even if was all uphill. People have lived on Wawel Hill at the site of the Castle as early as fifty thousand years ago, in the Paleolithic Age. It’s amazing to me!

The castle itself dates back to the 14th century with many updates, fires, wars and revisions.



The Wawel Cathedral has been the main burial site for Polish monarchs since the 14th century.

A popular version of the Wawel-dragon tale takes place in Kraków during the reign of King Krak, the city's legendary founder. Each day the evil dragon would beat a path of destruction across the countryside, killing the civilians, pillaging their homes and devouring their livestock. In many versions of the story, the dragon especially enjoyed eating young maidens, and could only be appeased if the townsfolk left a young girl in front of its cave once a month. The King certainly wanted to put a stop to the dragon, but his bravest knights fell to its fiery breath. In the versions involving the sacrifice of young girls, every girl in the city was eventually sacrificed except one, the King's daughter Wanda. In desperation, the King promised his beautiful daughter's hand in marriage to anyone who could defeat the dragon.


Great warriors from near and far fought for the prize and failed. One day a poor cobbler's apprentice named Skuba accepted the challenge. He stuffed a lamb with sulphur and set it outside the dragon's cave. The dragon ate it and soon became incredibly thirsty. He turned to the Vistula River for relief and drank and drank. But no amount of water could quench his aching stomach, and after swelling up from drinking half the Vistula river, he exploded. Skuba married the King's daughter as promised, and they lived happily ever after. I like a good “happily-ever-after story”! Oh, and here are the actual bones of the dragon hanging by the entrance to the castle...wink, wink!

Pope John Paul II is beloved to the Polish people, as he was born and raised there. There are many, many statues and memorials to him around Krakow.


Our tour guide pointed out these sculptures above the doorways on the Krakow street. Instead of addresses, people would use these kind of decorations as their landmarks. "I'll meet you at the rhino house at five!" I love that!




After lunch in the square, Paul had traditional Polish sausage and I had the most delicious cheese grilled on a skillet and served with cranberry sauce, we had some fun with the various sites in the square including a Polish school class on a field trip.












Then we met our bus driver and left for Auschwitz-Birkenau about an hour away. This was the largest German concentration camp between 1940 and 1945 and is now a Polish-run museum which has welcomed 22 million visitors thus far. It was a somber, horrifying tour, but also quiet and reflective. There is no talking as you walk through the tour, only a tour guide with a microphone and visitors wearing headsets to keep the noise-level minimal. I only share only a few photos from that experience.


The sign reads "Arbeit Macht Frei" or "Work Makes You Free"

I decided not to take photos inside. I felt it was a very sacred place and I was there for my own experience. I would encourage others to take that opportunity if it should ever arise. It was difficult, but important and I am glad I did it. Ironically, it was a beautiful day, with sun and a slight breeze.

I am grateful for my freedom.

Plaques along the memorial (former gas chamber site) in dozens of languages all carry the same message:
"Forever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity, where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women, and children, mainly Jews from various countries of Europe.

Auschwitz-Birkenau 1940-1945"

2 comments:

Diane said...

It's moving to just read about it from you.

Paul Plank said...

Our tour guide Gregory was pretty funny. Speed talker and all business. We had to practically force him to take a tip.