Sunday, July 17, 2011

Central Europe Trip, Days Nine & Ten

While day eight was the day of palaces, day nine was a day of museums. After breakfast, we headed to the Belvedere.












In 1714 the Austrian general Prince Eugene of Savoy commissioned the architect Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt to build the Lower Belvedere. The palace was completed just two years later in 1716. Today, the former living quarters and staterooms of this Baroque summer residence are still an impressive sight. Attractions include the Marble Hall, adorned with frescos by Martino Altomonte (1659-1745), the state bedroom, Hall of Grotesques and the Marble Gallery.



The Lower Belvedere also incorporates the orangery and palace stables, formerly used for the prince's horses.




Paul and some of the students decided to stop at the Freud Museum during a free period.



This house in the Alsergrund district, at Berggasse 19, was newly built when Freud moved here in 1891. In 1938 Freud was forced to leave German-annexed Austria due to his Jewish ancestry, and fled to London. His old rooms, where he lived for 47 years and produced the majority of his writings, now house a documentary centre to his life and works. The influence of psychoanalysis on art and society is displayed through a program of special exhibitions and a modern art collection.
The museum consists of Freud's former practice and a part of his old private quarters. Attached to the museum are Europe's largest psychoanalytic research library with 35,000 volumes and the research institute of the Sigmund Freud Foundation.
The display includes original items owned by Freud, the practice's waiting room, and parts of Freud's extensive antique collection. However his famous couch is now in the Freud Museum in London, along with most of the original furnishings, as Freud was able to take his furniture with him when he emigrated.


For the majority of the afternoon, we toured the grand
Kunsthistorisches Museum. It was opened in 1891 at the same time as the Naturhistorisches Museum, by Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria-Hungary. The two museums have identical exteriors and face each other across Maria-Theresien-Platz.







The two Ringstraße museums were commissioned by the Emperor in order to find a suitable shelter for the Habsburgs' formidable art collection and to make it accessible to the general public. The façade was built of sandstone. The building is rectangular in shape, and topped with a dome that is 60 meters high. The inside of the building is lavishly decorated with marble, stucco ornamentations, gold-leaf, and paintings. I thoroughly enjoyed the Pieter Brueghel collection. I could look at these paintings for hours and still find new insights and intricacies.



The students finally talked Mr. Plank into Planking in the Museum courtyard.

Following an early dinner, we slept for a few hours and headed out for day ten...to the airport in the wee hours to catch our long flight home. We had bonded with Nadia and snuck a picture at the last minute. She was an amazing guide and really inspired me to want to travel more and learn as much as I can about Europe and beyond...perhaps a little French might be in my future!

It was an amazing, unforgettable trip. I hope to share many of these places with Wyatt someday.

Central Europe Trip, Day Eight

Day eight was a day of palaces and performances...

The amazing Schloss Schönbrunn ("beautiful spring") is a former imperial summer residence of the House of Habsburg. When you think of what an authentic palace might look like, this has to be it.  Not a great deal of the inside is available for tour, but we did see some of the amazing apartments, including rooms where the royal family slept, dressed, dined and sat for hours reading or playing cards.
The gardens here are amazing. The sculpted garden space between the palace and the Sun Fountain is called the Great Parterre. The French garden, a big part of the area, was planned by Jean Trehet in 1695. It contains, among other things, a maze, the world's oldest existing zoo (founded in 1752), an orangerie, a palm house, an arboretum, and glass houses.
In the background you can see the Roman Ruins structure. It was constructed in 1778 as a garden feature. The fashion for picturesque ruins that became widespread with the rise of the Romantic movement soon after the middle of the 18th century symbolize both the decline of once great powers and the preservation of the remains of a heroic past.

 



 Following the palace tour, we headed back down to the old town square and St. Stephen's Cathedral. As the most important religious building in Austria's capital, the cathedral has borne witness to many important events in that nation's history and has, with its multi-colored tile roof, become one of the city's most recognizable symbols. Above the choir on the south side of the building the tiles form a mosaic of the double-headed eagle that is symbolic of the empire ruled from Vienna by the Habsburg dynasty. On the north side the coats of arms of the City of Vienna and of the Republic of Austria are depicted. In 1945, fire caused by World War II damage to nearby buildings leapt to the north tower of the cathedral and went on to destroy the wooden framework of the roof. Replicating the original bracing for so large a roof  would have required an entire square kilometre of forest, so over 600 metric tons of steel bracing were used instead.


I was surprised and amazed by the interior of the cathedral. The stained glass windows cast light upon the internal features, creating this heavenly glow throughout the structure. It is an inspiring sight to behold!

 
Paul read about a street in his guidebook called Grünangergasse that he wanted to see so during our free time we went to find it. It turned out to be a quiet, beautiful area with nice apartments and quiet city gardens. It also led us to Domgasse, the street where Mozart lived from the end of September 1784 until the end of April 1787. In these two and a half years he composed a number of major works including Le Nozze di Figaro, one of my favorites. It was interesting to see where he lived, he some sheet music, furnishings, clothing and listen to selections while we toured the apartment.

 

Finding the museum was serendipitous for us because while inside, a rain storm came through. After our tour, the beautiful streets were wet and glistening!

 

 

Vienna is an interesting mixture of old and new. These beautiful buildings surrounded by McDonalds, H&M and upscale shopping. It is a very touristy place but I suppose I'd rather shop in this setting than Bellevue Square!

After lunch and free time we toured the Sisi Museum located inside Habsburg Palace. Elisabeth of Austria (24 December 1837 – 10 September 1898) was Empress of Austria and Queen consort of Hungary as the spouse of Franz Joseph I. From an early age, she was called “Sisi” by family and friends.
While Elisabeth had limited influence on Austro-Hungarian politics, she has become a historical icon. Elisabeth is considered to have been a non-conformist who abhorred conventional court protocol and at the same time a tragic figure; she has inspired filmmakers and theatrical producers alike.
Married at sixteen years old, Elisabeth had difficulty adapting to the strict etiquette practiced at the Habsburg court. She bore the emperor three children in quick succession, but her firstborn's death would haunt Elisabeth for the rest of her life and cause a permanent rift between her and her husband. Elisabeth embarked on a life of travel, and saw little of her offspring. She visited such locations as Madeira, Hungary, England and Corfu.
She became known not only for her beauty. Newspapers published articles on her fashion sense, diet and exercise regimens, passion for riding sports, and a series of reputed lovers, although there is no verifiable evidence of her having an affair. She paid extreme attention to her appearance and spent much time preserving her beauty.

On 10 September 1898, in Geneva, Switzerland, Elisabeth, aged 60, was stabbed in the heart with a sharpened file by a young mentally ill anarchist named Luigi Lucheni. When attacked, she had been walking along the promenade of Lake Geneva about to board the steamship. She boarded the ship, unaware of the severity of her condition. Bleeding to death from a puncture wound to the heart, Elisabeth said, "What happened to me?" The strong pressure from her corset had contained the bleeding until the garment was removed. Reportedly, her assassin had hoped to kill a prince from the House of Orléans and, failing to find him, turned on Elisabeth instead. Lucheni afterwards said, "I wanted to kill a royal. It did not matter which one."

The empress was buried in the Imperial Crypt in Vienna's city centre. For centuries it has served as the Imperial burial place. After learning of his wife's death, the Emperor reportedly whispered to himself, "She will never know how much I loved her."

Heeresgeschichtliches Museum is a military history museum, the oldest and largest purpose-built military history museum in the world. Its collection includes one of the world's largest collections of bronze cannons and focuses on Austrian military history from the 16th century to 1945.

 
 

The concert was fun and entertaining and included famous Mozart and Strauss pieces. The opera singers were interactive with the audience and the ballet performers were delightful. The students had so much fun and told our tour guide how much they enjoyed it. She was impressed with their engagement and enjoyment of a classical concert.
Off to bed and our last full day of Vienna ahead!

Friday, July 8, 2011

Happy Birthday, USA!

Our family tradition is to brave the weather and crowds and attend the huge Family Fourth Celebration at Gasworks Park in Seattle. This year it was hot and sunny and we had lots of fun enjoying the activities and food, playing with the football, playing card games, reading, and trying to pass the hours until it got dark.
 

 Paul took these cool pictures of the sun going down and reflecting on the city.

 
 
  Our friends, the Peay's joined us for the big show. We didn't get as good of video of the dancing as last year, but still fun! The band the Dusty 45s played before and after the fireworks. The coolest part was when the lead singer lit his trumpet on fire!
 
 

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Central Europe Trip, Days Six (cont) & Seven

After visiting Auschwitz and Birkenau we asked if we could drive by the former Jewish Ghetto in Krakow.

Krakow's Podgorze district was the site of the former Jewish Ghetto, and while part of the ghetto wall still remains, until December 2005 there was no monument commemorating the heroes and victims of the ghetto. This memorial was designed by Krakow architects Piotr Lewicki and Kazimierz Latak and funded by Polish film director Roman Polanski. It features 33 large illuminated chairs in the square and 37 smaller chairs standing on the edge of the square and at the tram stops. The chairs represent the furniture and other remnants that were discarded on that very spot by the ghetto's Jews as they were herded into the trains that would often take them to their deaths in Auschwitz and other concentration camps.

Nearby is the site of Oscar Schindler's factory. Oscar Schindler was a German industrialist born in Moravia. He is credited with saving almost 1,200 Jews during the Holocaust by employing them in his enamelware and ammunitions factories, which were located in what is now Poland and the Czech Republic respectively.
No one knows what Schindler's motives were. He was quoted as saying "I knew the people who worked for me... When you know people, you have to behave towards them like human beings."


We came back to the hotel for dinner and our final sunset view of Krakow from the hotel window! I hope to return someday with Wyatt.

Day seven was a travel day. We traveled by bus from Krakow to Vienna. It was supposed to take 6-7 hours, but because of road closures we spent at least 8, maybe even 9 hours on the road. Not our favorite day, but at least some of the kids caught up on their sleep!

Our bus driver Emi is Hungarian. He was a good driver and did not like when other driver's were reckless or daring. One tried to pass the bus on a windy road and almost ended up in a head-on collision. We learned many choice Hungarian words on the long bus trip.

In the late afternoon we arrived in Vienna, or Wien as it is known in Europe. Vienna is very majestic and by far the largest city in Austria. Nadia oriented us with downtown Vienna on a short walking tour before dinner.

Vienna City Park is a beautiful gathering place for Austrian-natives and tourists and was blooming with roses and other beautiful signs of summer.

We walked to the Vienna Parliment Building designed in Greek revival style. One of the building's most famous features is the later added Athena fountain in front of the main entrance, which is a notable Viennese tourist attraction. Following heavy damage and destruction during the Second World War, most of the interior has been restored to its original splendor.
Many of the other buildings we saw on this walking tour were ones we would see or visit on days 8-10, so I will describe those later.
We walked through the touristy streets to dinner at Weinerwald. The students thought the wiener schnitzel was the best dinner we'd had yet!





On our way back to meet the bus and head to our last hotel we saw these street performers and had to stop to watch. It was a fun way to end the introduction to Vienna!
http://youtu.be/aF8MEhts27c
http://youtu.be/aCwTISV9-Hg