Friday, October 21, 2011

Mljet, Croatia

Mljet (pronounced Mm-yet) is a beautiful island northeast of Dubrovnik. It was discovered by ancient Greco-Roman geographers, who wrote the first records and descriptions, calling it Melita, or "honey," for the swarms of bees they found there. I don't remember seeing any bees, but the sound of the cicadas in the trees was quite ominous!


We traveled by small boat for about 30 minutes to reach the northwest harbor. After a short walk to the entrance of the national park we found our local tour guide. She led us through the forested area and spoke about the history and geography of the island. I've included a bit of the folklore below.  Then we traveled by tiny passenger ferry past the Monastery of St. Mary, located on a small island within one of Mljet's saltwater lakes, and landed on the Island of St. Mary where there is a tiny stone church and a small walking path.

Mljet is awash in legends and folklore. The most oft-told story is the legend of Homer's hero Odysseus, whose ship supposedly was blown ashore at Mljet, where he was enchanted by the nymph Calypso and kept in her cave for 7 years.

Another legend says that St. Paul stayed on Mljet during one of his trips spreading Christianity. As with many legends, this one is based on a kernel of truth. According to historians, St. Paul was shipwrecked off the island of Melita and there is a debate as to whether Melita refers to Mljet or Malta. Nonetheless, St. Paul is held in high esteem by the residents of Mljet.

The water in the salt water lakes was a spectacular teal green!
Part reality, and perhaps part exaggeration, is the story of Mljet's relationship with snakes and boars. According to records, Mljet once was overpopulated with poisonous snakes, and in 1911 experts brought in mongooses to get rid of them. The little critters eliminated the snakes but created another problem by killing the island's rabbits and chickens, too. Currently, the island has a problem with wild boars, which prowl the forests. The boars supposedly swam 8km (5 miles) across the sea to Mljet years ago during a fire in their former habitat. I was a little freaked out by the boars, but I didn't glimpse one while we were there. Mostly just plant life, beautiful water and the incessant sound of cicadas in the trees.




We had a wonderful meal at a small restaurant on Mljet. I had this white risotto and Paul stuck with pizza...delicious! Then back to Dubrovnik for our final night before heading off on another adventure in Split.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Kotor, Montenegro

Kotor has one of the best preserved medieval old towns in the Adriatic. We spent most of our time in the old town area and took in the beautiful sights. We had a local guide who took us on a short introductory tour of the town. I enjoyed seeing the apartments of people who actually live and work here.  Lots of laundry hanging on the lines!



This beautiful Cathedral of Saint Tryphon was begun in 809 and rededicated in 2009, hence the numbers on the towers. It is amazing to be in something that old and touch the stone. It was built in honor of the patron and protector of the city.

It contains a rich collection of artifacts. Older than many famous churches and cathedrals in Europe, the Cathedral of St. Tryphon has a treasury of immense value. In its interior there are frescoes from the 14th century, a stone ornament above the main altar in which the life of St. Tryphon is depicted, as well as a relief of saints in gold and silver. The most representative works of Kotor's masters and craftsmen are kept in this Cathedral, making its collection quite unique. I enjoyed all of the ironwork and beautiful stonework.


Kotor is surrounded by an impressive city wall built by the Republic of Venice and Venetian influence remains predominant in the city's architecture.


A tiny old Orthodox church sits in the the St. Luke's Square. It is dwarfed by the buildings around it, and especially by the newer Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas nearby. It's so old it seems as if the old town sprung up around it, as if once upon a time it stood here surrounded only by grass and water, and not by thick stone walls. And this is quite possible, given that it was built in the 12th century, long before the Venetians arrived and turned the town into a fortress.                       

 

Some of our group hiked up the hill to the Church of Our Lady of Health (fittingly named) and the fortress which was even higher up the hill. I heard the views were amazing from up there!




Yummy pizza lunch at Sara. Our waiter didn't speak English but was friendly and helpful with the finger pointing and smiling!



Here is a group shot in Kotor. I'm going to do my best to name everyone in the picture from left to right. Local tour guide, Michael, Julio, Mike, Wanda, Jane, Fran, Lisa, Steve, Rebecca, Jessi, Meg, Tony, Nathan, Mike, Melissa, Tracy, Chet, Paul, Ronnie. And Mike the tour guide was taking the photo. Our explorica hosts, Aimee and Rich are also not pictured.
After our lunch we all headed to the bay town of Perast and boarded a small boat to Our Lady of the Rock Island. Supposedly Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones have a vacation home near Perast. It's easy to see why!

 These are photos of St. George Island which is closed to tourists. The island contains Saint George Benedictine monastery from the 12th century and the old graveyard for the old nobility from Perast and further from the whole Bay of Kotor.

 According to legend, Our Lady of the Rock Island was made over the centuries by the seamen who kept an ancient oath after finding the icon of the Madonna on the rock in the sea on July 22, 1452. Upon returning from each successful voyage, they laid a rock in the Bay. Over time, the islet gradually emerged from the sea. The custom of throwing rocks into the sea is alive even nowadays. Every year on the sunset of July 22, an event called fašinada, when local residents take their boats and throw rocks into the sea, widening the surface of the island, takes place

 The church contains 68 paintings by Tripo Kokolja, a famous 17th-century baroque artist from Perast. His most important painting, ten meters long, is The Death of the Virgin. There are also paintings by Italian artists, and an icon (circa 1452) of Our Lady of the Rocks.
The church also houses a famous tapestry embroidered by Jacinta Kunić-Mijović from Perast. It took her 25 years to finish it while waiting her darling to come from a long journey, and eventually, she became blind. She used golden and silver fibres but what makes this tapestry so famous is the fact that she also embroidered her own hair in it.
This wall piece contains tokens left by brides who have been married here. Supposedly if they leave a token from their ceremony, their married lives will be happy.

 Outside the church looking at St George island.

 After an uneventful dinner at the hotel, we enjoyed another spectacular sunset from our hotel balcony.

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Dubrovnik, Croatia

July 2011, Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia
When I heard that our Egypt trip had been replaced with Croatia, I admit I needed to look up exactly where we would be headed. Croatia is the yellow Adriatic country and Dubrovnik, at the southern tip, was our first stop.

The Jewel of the Adriatic







Dubrovnik is a gorgeous place. The water is turquoise blue due to the rocky sea beds. Our hotel was amazing and we enjoyed the pools, both a traditional chlorinated pool and a sea water filled pool just off the rocky shore. The weather was amazing and we were so delighted with this view from our room.


I'd heard that the food in Croatia was excellent, so I was prepared to try some new seafood and other delicacies. At Restaurant Eden the muscles were really nice and the tuna was a bit overcooked. I enjoyed the greens we had throughout the trip and every meal we had was served with vegetables which was nice. Dessert was gelato....We ate our weight in gelato this trip. Excellent!





The sunset from our hotel room...gorgeous!
The next day we visited the heart of the city. This is Stradun, Dubrovnik's main street.  

We had a group lunch which consisted of a delightful soup and some fairly standard chicken and fries. The Europeans love serving fries! The grilled zucchini and eggplant was a nice addition.



Dubrovnik is probably most famous for it's 7th century stone walls. They have been considered to be amongst the great fortification systems of the Middle Ages. They are of the largest and most complete wall structures in all of Europe. We walked the entire 6,360 ft and I had to fight my extreme fear of heights for most of the walk.




The Minčeta Tower was built in 1463 and is the highest point on the wall. Paul took the camera up there as I stayed below, held on and got my nerves back.
Our tour guide recommended eating dinner at Moby Dick so how could we pass that up? We had a nice meal, but the thing I want to remember from that night were the people. A delightful couple to one side ordered a large order of tiny fried fish (which I read is one of the favorite things among locals) and offered us some. They were yummy! The family to our other side was from South Africa and we had a great conversation about our travels and lives. It was a really relaxing, nice time!

Paul enjoyed his calamari as you can see!

We also enjoyed a few other famous Dubrovnik sights. A medical service was introduced in 1301, with the first pharmacy still operating to this day, being opened in 1317. This is a picture outside of the pharmacy gardens where special plants and herbs are grown.




Dubrovnik's most beloved church is St Blaise's church, built in the 18th century in honour of Dubrovnik's patron saint. Dubrovnik's baroque Cathedral was built in the 18th century and houses an impressive Treasury with relics of Saint Blaise. We only got a glimpse because there was a wedding mass going on as we entered. Here is a long shot of the bride and groom outside afterwards. I love that!


This is Onofrio's fountain. It was constructed in 1438 as the end point in a water supply system that began in a well 12km away. Five and a half centuries later it was still working so well that it supplied Dubrovnik residents with drinking water during the bombings of 1991.






The Rectors Palace is a Gothic-Renaissance structure that displays finely carved capitals and an ornate staircase.



 We were excited about the upcoming places on the itinerary, but this jewel of a city was hard to leave. The next morning we were on our way to Kotor, Montenegro and we stopped for one last look. Just amazing!

I hope to share a bit more about the history and culture of Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia as I go along in the next few posts. One note if you are planning a trip: Croatia depends on tourism for about 80% of it's industry. They cater nicely to the tourists, especially those from other European countries.  We felt very welcome and most people speak English or help you get by on a few words and phrases.
dobar dan = hello, good day
hvala = thank you
kupaonicu=bathroom